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Strale
Posts : 26
Join date : 2018-10-09

MY FF YOKE Empty MY FF YOKE

Mon Oct 29, 2018 9:01 pm
Hi Guys,
following the invitation to show our built
I here attach some pictures even if i'm still far from making it

ROLL AXIS
MY FF YOKE Img_4011

The only issue i found here is that i had to use 2 x M4x20 screws to secure the motor inside the printed clamp.
the M4x16 didn't even reach the other side of the clamp and i decided to avoid to overtight the part.

PITCH AXIS (early stage) just a dry fit
MY FF YOKE Img_4013

Here i will need someone help as on the back of the motor there not the RED sign... i'm assuming the red is where the red wire is soldered ... but want to be sure.

I also decided to go for a 450 mm stainless steel tube ... just to be sure to have enough space after it will mounted in the lower panel.

Hope You will enjoy (even if you guys are far ahead .....)
Thanks JAY !!!! I love this "mod" !
Admin
Admin
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Join date : 2017-08-31
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MY FF YOKE Empty Re: MY FF YOKE

Tue Oct 30, 2018 10:41 pm
You are very welcome! Glad you like it.

Very nice work, even kept my colour scheme there;)
The reason why 16mm bolts didn't reach other side of the bracket is because you did not remove the "shield collar" from the motor. I would recommend to do that.
As for the RED mark. I disassembled many MSFFB sticks and they all had it.
Could you take a picture of the back of that motor please?

Jay


Last edited by Admin on Tue Oct 30, 2018 10:53 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Tue Oct 30, 2018 10:50 pm
I just realized, didn't you print the blue parts in black plastic initially? Very Happy
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Strale
Posts : 26
Join date : 2018-10-09

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Sun Nov 04, 2018 5:17 pm
Hi Jay,
here the picture of the motor in which i didn't find the same red spot as in the other one.

MY FF YOKE Img_4014
i'm not sure the small brown dot can be the one !
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Strale
Posts : 26
Join date : 2018-10-09

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Sun Nov 04, 2018 5:19 pm
Admin wrote:I just realized, didn't you print the blue parts in black plastic initially? Very Happy

what do you mean ?
nope ... i printed them following your color scheme ... and when changed the filament
i made a small print to avoid remaining from previous pla.

Damn still waiting for the RODS and the 25mm Tube ! it's really weird i wasn't able to find the tube in my country
out buying a 6 meter long tube ! LOL
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Caldari
Posts : 23
Join date : 2018-09-25

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Sun Nov 04, 2018 7:09 pm
Strale Red dot is clearly visibale right from cated red wire
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Thu Nov 08, 2018 5:26 pm
Strale wrote:
Admin wrote:I just realized, didn't you print the blue parts in black plastic initially? Very Happy

what do you mean ?
nope ... i printed them following your color scheme ... and when changed the filament
i made a small print to avoid remaining from previous pla.


Sorry, on the first picture you posted the blue parts looked black to me. Ignore that comment then:P

As Caldari already stated, the RED dot is just on the right of the red wire but I ques you're already way past that Wink

Jay
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Strale
Posts : 26
Join date : 2018-10-09

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Fri Nov 09, 2018 10:35 am
The weird thing about the red dot is that on the other motor the dot seem applied with some red paint
while in this motor the dot is darker and exactely on a motor's pin. Anyway i will go on considering it.
I'm not past that as i'm still waiting for the 25mm inox tube and the stainless steel rods.
Have also to build the case ... but i still have one question about the wiring.
I read somewhere that a cable swap is needed to make all things working ..... is the cable swap related to the pots reversed polarity
or it affects also the motor's wiring ? 'casue from the pictures i saw the only change in wiring i saw was referred to the pots reversed polarity.

Thanks
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Sat Nov 10, 2018 11:01 am
The only difference (reversed polarity) compared to original joystick connection is on these two:
Roll potentiometer
Pitch motor

Pitch potentiometer is changed to Bochen and connected according to the chart.
I will extend the tutorial soon and make sure to thoroughly explain this part.

Jay
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