FFB Yoke v1 Beta

BTW
Before you start testing your yoke, make sure to connect all the original components.
The two additional axes don't matter but everything else is vital!

ok now i find out what is problem
Belts must be on place but anyway one motor spining and that is bcs gear is bed printed,
that is red one on front now trying to print new with smaller hole...

i have problem to print that gear, if i want to buy that is 30 mm gear but how ment tooths?

What problem do u have with the printing ?

i have just cheap chinese 3d printer so when i print that gear tooths is not so good so gear is slipping and missing sensor steps.. so Yoke cannot home

Would it be helpful when i modify the gear for u ? I would double the thinkness of the gear and tighten the hole. Maybe it would help

Or u can do it by ur self with the online cad. Its called tinkercad

I'm modeling in Blender and there is many cockpit parts i allready modeled... but i didnt think about make this gear thick, gonna try that,,   hole i make smal and glue with very strong 2 component glue so is on place ( i hope i can remove tio change to thicker gear)  But anyway thank you for your offer its very kind.
I modeled Yoke for baron and you can see that in general diskusion... Modeling now Trimer wheels

Here is files on Thinguniverse i design


https://www.thingiverse.com/Zenon/designs

yes making gear thicker is solution now is working, stil don't home at pitch on roll home good
IS there any software to calibrate yoke? Old software doesnt work on windows 7?

Sounds good with the gear.
Ur problem with home the pitch, what does ur motor ? When u wired the pot (like jay's pics) did u also change the two wires from the motor ? Cause u must also change this !

Btw @ Jay, i finished my yoke today and its great ! I will also build ur v2 when it is available

I didnt change wires..
Thats why we need instructions now i gona change wires and test.
Thank you for help!!!!

Tested working like charm now is homing on roll and pitch...

Hey guys
Sorry for the lack of instructions. As I said earlier I'm really busy at work, plus v2 development and other projects going on simultaneously.
Luckily we've got some very nice chaps here, helping others so I thank you all for that.

For those who managed to build any of our projects, would you please post some pictures of your work into "showcase your pit" section?

I'm going to add new thread "instructions" and try to bring all the build information together along with pics I've got from building the prototype.

Have a nice weekend
Jay

Caldari wrote:Tested working like charm now is homing on roll and pitch...

Glad to hear that it works

Jay,
the Comprehensive guide is great ! thanks !

Probably one only more info is needed ! the exact lenght of the stailess steel rods.
in the list you updated with 350 / 400 mm but read somewhere that they will probably need to be cutted
Can You confirm ?
SORRY ! FOUND ! it's 333 mm !

then i have another issue that's not built related !
I received the microsoft FF2
strange thing is that even without the hands on the stick FF is active !
when i'll open i will find out if it's just a dirty IR (trans / receiv) or something is wrong !
In case ? which are the options ? How to check if the leds are faults or the board has problems ?
and last ..... as i read that we had to put some "tape" on the IR .... if the motor are always connected
this should be fine for our purpose .
Or shall i begin to worry ?
Thanks

if is active than can be somw wire broked you can remov Z rotary switch than check other wires if is OK, bcs motor is working one or both if is problem in connection to main board (i burn couple gears bcs bed wiring)

I bet you'll find the problem in a broken circuit. Most probably one of the legs on transmitter/receiver.
Please check the three lines shown here..



Jay

Thanks everybody .... i'll check ! i'm planning to open it on Sunday
Yesterday i tried it and at least everything else was working just always on the FF.

I do have one question regarding the PCB ..... is MANDATORY to use all the switches / hat of the board ?
I mean ... i will use a Saitek Yoke and would like to use the XY axis and FF of the sidewinder but keeping all the switches and hats
of the Saitek ... so putting the Saitek PCB inside the Box ..... and hooking the Yoke to its board. This way i also could use the extra USB port that's with it.

Can I do this way ?

It is not mandatory however you'll still need to attach the IR sensor which is on the same connector.

Jay

Ok Guys,
i finally had the chance to modify the two motor's bracket accordingly the instruction given
finished or almost finished the roll axis and now starting with the pitch&dive.
What is still blocking me is that i'm unsure about the lenght of the stainless steel tube ..... the instruction give a lenght of 400 mm
but the tube will enter into the Yoke for few centimeters, then the box thickness ..... i'm a little bit unsure to buy 400mm
as i still don't know the exact position of the assy in the pit and i'm scared the Yoke with hit against the low panel's switches.

Jay .... are there any mechanical problems if i go for a 450 mm ??
thanks.

No problem at all if you wanna use longer shaft.